Hello. One of the great things to eat in New York right now is a dish called Victor celeryserved to Inga’s bar in Brooklyn Heights. It’s a cold salad based on the one that rolled out of a San Francisco hotel over a century ago: braised celery stalks in vinaigrette, with anchovies. At Inga’s Bar, fresh celery, greens and herbs join the plate, along with chunky chunks of Parmesan and splashes of pickled mustard seeds.
It’s not just me who loves this stuff. Our own Pete Wells, who reviewed Inga’s in May, was delighted. Like most everyone I’ve sent to restaurants, where invariably they take the time to text me a picture of Victor Celery complete with heart emojis and OMG.
Some editors send reporters to cover Water Board parades or hearings. At New York Times Cooking, we send them to kitchens. Our very own Alexa Weibel returned from Inga with enough coverage of Chef Sean Rembold’s cooking to develop a recipe for her Victor celery (above) that anyone can make at home. I could eat this salad once a week. I hope if you do it today you will feel the same.
Here’s an easy win for the top of the week: dinner on a griddle of roasted feta with chickpeas and tomatoes. Cheese and tomatoes soften under a mixture drizzled with olive oil, honey and chili flakes, and chickpeas soak up all the flavor. That and toast? All good!
More tomatoes, this time cooked with a ton of chilies and spices for this speeded up version of the Pakistani dish known as karahi chickenexcellent with basmati rice.
Try that spaghetti harissa and miso, and you’ll never look at carbonara the same way again. Big spice! Big umami! This could make your monthly rotation.
And then you can welcome the weekend with this fried snapper creole sauce, which calls for fillets suitable for weeknights instead of the more traditional whole fish. It’s delicious with a few generous shakes of hot sauce.
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Now, this has nothing to do with bacon or parsnips, but “via ferratas” – railways of rungs, bridges, ladders and steel cables permanently bolted into rock faces and wild ledges – pop up across Colorado, much to the delight of thrill seekers who don’t have much (if any) mountaineering or rock climbing experience. But like Julie Dugdale wrote for 5280maybe that’s not a good thing.
It was originally published in 1999, but I just caught up with it now, and, if you haven’t read it, I think you should:”Escape: The Chosin Reservoir Campaign, Korea 1950by Martin Russ.
American-style trainspotting, in Smithsonian Magazine. Nice photography. And in The Times too: For the first time in 50 years, you can take a train from New York to the Berkshires.
Finally, here is a poem by Ben Lerner in The New York Review of Books, “Meridian response.” Read this, and I’ll be back on Monday.